A shadow box frame is designed for objects that have more depth than photographs, prints, and other flat artwork. The extra space inside the frame makes it possible to display medals, jerseys, textiles, memorabilia, collectibles, keepsakes, dimensional artwork, and many other three-dimensional objects.

The most important part of shadow box framing is fitting. The frame must have enough usable depth, the objects must be securely mounted, and enough clearance should remain between the displayed items and the glass or acrylic glazing.

Begin by measuring the width, height, and maximum depth of the object or group of objects. For shadow box framing, depth is just as important as width and height.

Measure the thickest point of each object, including any mounting support or attachment system behind it. An object that is 1 inch deep may not fit properly in a frame with exactly 1 inch of space because backing, spacers, mounting board, and glazing clearance also require room.

Always check the usable inside depth of the frame, not only the outside depth of the frame moulding.

Before permanently attaching anything, arrange all items on the background board and test different layouts. For displays with medals, photographs, documents, nameplates, patches, or memorabilia, leave enough space between items so each object can be clearly seen.

Also consider the distance between the objects and the inside edges of the frame. Items placed too close to the frame edge may look crowded after final assembly.

The background is both a visual and structural part of the shadow box. It may be matboard, fabric-covered board, archival mounting board, foam board, or another suitable rigid material.

The background color should complement the objects and the frame. Neutral colors such as white, cream, gray, black, and natural tones are common choices, while stronger colors can be used for uniforms, medals, sports memorabilia, or decorative displays.

For heavier objects, a decorative matboard or fabric surface alone may not provide enough support. A stronger backing board may be required behind the visible background.

There is no single mounting method suitable for every shadow box object. The correct method depends on the weight, shape, material, condition, and value of the item.

Lightweight objects may be secured with sewing, clear filament, formed supports, hidden mechanical attachments, or other suitable methods. Medals and small objects may require thread, wire, pins, custom supports, or mechanical attachment.

Avoid assuming that one adhesive is suitable for everything. Some adhesives can fail over time, stain fabrics, damage sensitive materials, or make future removal difficult.

Textiles require careful support because they can stretch, sag, fold, or become distorted when their weight is concentrated at only a few attachment points.

Small fabric items can often be attached by sewing them to a fabric-covered mounting board. Larger textiles may require support across a greater area so the weight is distributed evenly.

Sports jerseys are common shadow box items. Before mounting a jersey, decide how much of the garment will be visible and which details are most important, such as the number, name, logo, signature, or patches.

A jersey can be displayed fully open or folded to reduce the overall frame size. It should be supported at several points to help maintain its shape. Carefully placed stitching can secure the garment without creating excessive tension.

Medals, pins, keys, badges, jewelry, coins, ribbons, and small memorabilia require careful mounting. Existing loops, holes, pins, ribbons, or attachment points can often be used without permanently modifying the object.

The mounting system should prevent items from moving when the frame is transported or hung vertically. Always test the display upright before final assembly.

Heavy objects require stronger support. Their weight should be transferred to a rigid structural backing rather than relying only on the decorative surface board.

For heavy or unusual objects, the frame joints, backing system, and wall hanging hardware must also be strong enough to support the complete shadow box.

The glass or acrylic should not press against dimensional objects. Space can be created with frame spacers, deep mat walls, fabric-covered liners, wood extensions, stacked frame systems, or other shadow box construction methods.

Measure irregular objects at their highest point and confirm that there is enough clearance between the object and the inside surface of the glazing.

Shadow boxes can use glass or acrylic depending on the size, weight, transportation needs, and intended use. Acrylic is lighter than glass and can be useful for large shadow boxes.

Before final assembly, clean both sides of the glazing carefully. Dust, fingerprints, fibers, and streaks trapped inside the frame can be difficult to remove after the shadow box is closed.

Before closing the back of the shadow box, inspect the complete display carefully. Check that each object is secure, aligned, and properly spaced.

Hold the frame vertically to confirm that objects do not shift, sag, rotate, or detach. If anything moves, improve the mounting method before closing the frame.

Once the display passes final inspection, install the backing materials and secure the complete fitting package inside the frame.

Shadow boxes are often heavier than standard picture frames. The hanging hardware should be selected according to the total size and weight of the completed frame. Large shadow boxes may require two hanging points or a heavy-duty hanging system.

Common mistakes include selecting a frame before calculating the total required depth, using weak mounting methods, placing objects too close to the glazing, overcrowding the layout, and closing the frame before removing dust or fingerprints.

A mounting method that appears secure while the frame is lying flat may fail after the frame is hung vertically. Always test the frame upright before final closing.

A custom-made shadow box frame can be produced according to the size, depth, and presentation requirements of the objects being displayed. This is especially useful for jerseys, medals, memorabilia, textiles, keepsakes, dimensional artwork, and objects that do not fit standard ready-made frames.

Depending on the project, the framing package can include the correct frame depth, background board, fabric covering, matting, spacers, glazing, structural backing, and hanging hardware.

Non-glare plexiglass is generally not suitable for deep frames such as shadow boxes. Unlike regular clear plexiglass, non-glare plexiglass has a surface treatment designed to reduce reflections. For this effect to work properly while maintaining a clear image, the artwork should be positioned very close to the glazing surface.

In a shadow box, the displayed objects are positioned farther away from the glazing. When there is significant space between the artwork or objects and non-glare plexiglass, the view can appear blurry, fuzzy, or softened instead of sharp and clear. The greater the distance between the object and the non-glare surface, the more noticeable this effect may become.

For most deep shadow boxes, regular clear glass or clear acrylic is a more suitable choice because it allows dimensional objects to remain clearly visible through the glazing. Other specialized glazing options may also be considered when reflection control or ultraviolet protection is required.

Frame spacers are an important part of many shadow box designs. They are used to create and maintain space between the glazing and the mounted artwork or objects. In a standard picture frame, a spacer may create only a small separation between the artwork and the glazing. In a shadow box, deeper spacers or spacer systems can help create the additional interior depth required for dimensional objects.

Spacers are installed around the inside perimeter of the frame, between the glazing and the background or mounting board. They help hold the glass or acrylic in position while creating a consistent distance between the glazing and the displayed objects.

Depending on the required depth and frame design, shadow box spacers can be made from wood, plastic, foam board, matboard, or other suitable materials. Commercial frame spacers are available in different sizes and finishes, while deeper shadow boxes may require custom-built spacer walls or wood extensions.

The visible surface of the spacer is also part of the finished presentation. Spacers can be selected or covered to coordinate with the frame, background board, matboard, fabric, or displayed objects. Black, white, neutral, wood-tone, and fabric-covered spacer walls are commonly used depending on the design of the shadow box.

When fitting a shadow box, all four spacer sections should be measured and cut accurately so the corners fit cleanly and the interior depth remains consistent. The spacer system should sit securely inside the frame and should not bow, twist, or move after final assembly.

For shallow objects such as medals, coins, pins, small keepsakes, and slightly raised artwork, standard frame spacers may provide enough separation. Jerseys, textiles, large memorabilia, and thicker objects usually require deeper spacer walls or a frame specifically designed with sufficient shadow box depth.

Before final assembly, check the highest point of every displayed object and confirm that the spacer depth provides enough clearance. The objects should not touch or press against the glass or acrylic. For irregular objects, check the clearance at several locations rather than measuring only one area of the display.

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